Mae Hong Son Loop
December 2024
The Mae Hong Son Loop is an iconic route in northern Thailand, near the border with Myanmar. Spanning 4,088 curves over 700 km, it’s a dream for motorbike enthusiasts seeking adventure. Starting and ending in Chiang Mai, the loop offers breathtaking views of towering mountains, stunning waterfalls, and fascinating caves.
Highlights along the way include Doi Inthanon National Park, home to Thailand’s highest peak at 2,565 meters. Key stops include Pai, known for its laid-back vibe and natural beauty, as well as the towns of Mae Hong Son and Mae Sariang, perfect for immersing yourself in local culture, discovering unique temples, and experiencing authentic traditions.
The Route
The loop covers all the major attractions of this remarkable region in Thailand and can be traveled clockwise or counterclockwise. Choosing the clockwise direction, as I did, allows you to relax in Pai, the last stop before returning to Chiang Mai. Opting for the counterclockwise route means ending your adventure with the wonders of Doi Inthanon National Park.
In either case, the journey begins in Chiang Mai, the gem of northern Thailand. This city deserves a few days of exploration and is easily accessible, with its international airport connecting to major hubs in Thailand and Southeast Asia. It’s the perfect starting point for this unforgettable itinerary.
The duration of the loop depends on your available time and interests. Some travelers, short on time, complete the loop in just three days, focusing on the main routes and skipping attractions like Doi Inthanon National Park, Ban Rak Thai, and Namton Mae Surin National Park. Others prefer a slower pace, spending up to two weeks exploring this picturesque region. I completed the loop in 8 days and 7 nights, allowing me to discover everything the area has to offer, though without much time for rest.
The best way to experience the Mae Hong Son Loop is on two wheels for a more immersive adventure, but many also opt for a car for greater comfort.
Below is a list of destinations and their main points of interest to help you customize your loop:
Chiang Mai: This charming city, renowned for its ancient temples, is the perfect place to rent your vehicle and begin your adventure.
Doi Inthanon National Park: A breathtaking natural park that is home to Thailand’s highest peak. Spending at least one night here is highly recommended to fully enjoy its beauty and tranquility.
Mae Sariang: This peaceful town in northern Thailand, near the Myanmar border and surrounded by lush green mountains and rivers, offers the chance to immerse yourself in local culture, far from the tourist crowds.
Khun Yuam: A small village without any major attractions, it serves as a convenient stopover on the way to Mae Hong Son, especially if you plan to visit Namton Mae Surin National Park by taking a slight detour. Personally, I found the winding mountain roads leading to this famous park more fascinating than the park itself.
Mae Hong Son: Like Mae Sariang, this town is nestled amidst green mountains and valleys, offering an opportunity to experience authentic Thailand and visit nearby ethnic villages.
Ban Rak Thai Reaching this picturesque village requires a short detour from the main route, but it’s well worth spending a night here to appreciate its undeniable beauty and Chinese cultural influences, even if it’s a popular spot among local tourists.
Pai: Pai is undoubtedly the most touristy destination on the loop, known for its relaxing atmosphere and pristine nature. It’s the perfect place to spend two nights before heading back to Chiang Mai, allowing time to explore local attractions and unwind before completing the loop.
The main roads of the Mae Hong Son Loop are in excellent condition, thanks to regular government maintenance, ensuring a smooth and safe ride for motorcyclists. This region is less crowded compared to Bangkok and the southern islands, with minimal traffic, making scooter travel particularly convenient. The distances between stops are typically no more than two or three hours, with plenty of attractions to explore along the way. Despite the 4,088 curves, the loop is a truly enjoyable experience for anyone who loves two-wheel adventures!
Tips Before Departure
Get a Vehicle: Your journey starts in Chiang Mai, where you’ll find plenty of rental shops to choose from. Considering the steep slopes and many curves along the route, a 125cc scooter is highly recommended. Costs for a 125cc in good condition are around 250฿ per day (about €7) or 3,000฿ per month (about €84). Always negotiate for a better deal. During the high season (December-January), availability may be limited, so it’s best to book in advance. A reliable rental service is Zippy Motorbike Rentals Chiang Mai (Google Maps), while Red Ride (Google Maps) is well known for its competitive prices.
Travel During the Dry Season: The best time for this scooter loop is from October to February. However, in February, agricultural burning can significantly impact air quality. Some high-altitude destinations might experience occasional rain, so pack a waterproof jacket.
Obtain an International Driving License: An international driving license is required in Thailand. While police checks are rare in remote areas, they are more common in Chiang Mai and Phuket. Fines for driving without a license are usually low.
Travel Light: Travel with just one backpack and, if possible, store some clothes under the scooter seat. Between destinations, you might need to carry your gear or ask the staff at a stop to keep your bag temporarily. Laundry services are widely available along the route, offering same-day express options. Cold-weather clothing is essential for areas like Doi Inthanon National Park and Ban Rak Thai, where December and January nights can be quite chilly due to the altitude.
Don’t Book Accommodation in Advance: There’s no need to reserve accommodations in advance, as this remote area of Thailand usually has plenty of availability, even at the last minute. Booking on the spot often allows for price negotiation and gives you flexibility to stay longer in places you love or skip others. The only exception is Pai, especially during the high season (December and January), where accommodations can fill up quickly, and it’s better to book ahead.
Bring Cash: It’s advisable to have cash on hand, as many restaurants, hotels, and entry fees for tourist sites in northern Thailand cannot be paid by card. While ATMs are readily available in some stops, they can be harder to find in others. To avoid inconveniences, it’s best to withdraw cash before leaving Chiang Mai. The local currency is the Baht (฿), and €1 equals approximately 36 baht. During the 8 days on the road, I spent around 9,000฿ (approximately €300).
Wake Up Early: To make the most of certain attractions, it’s recommended to wake up early or, on occasion, even before sunrise. The ideal sleeping schedule for this adventure is generally from 10:00 PM to 6:00 AM.
Get Familiar with Google Maps: While several apps can assist with navigation, I find Google Maps to be the most intuitive and comprehensive. Locations are easy to find, and user reviews can guide your choices. It’s a good idea to install the app on your smartphone and download offline maps of the area to avoid issues in case of poor signal. All the hotels, restaurants, and activities mentioned in this guide are easily traceable on Google Maps.
Internet Connection: Thailand’s internet connectivity is excellent, with reliable Wi-Fi in accommodations and strong SIM card signals. I recommend purchasing a local SIM card at a 7-11 store upon arrival. Truemove is a great provider, offering a monthly plan with 20GB of data and local calls for just 200฿ (around €5.50). Along the route, you’ll easily find accommodations with desks and Wi-Fi or charming cafes perfect for working comfortably.
Respect Buddhist Culture: Buddhism is the predominant religion in Thailand. In many temples, covering your shoulders and legs is required to honor local traditions. Waking up early offers a chance to witness monks collecting alms from villagers along the streets and giving sacred blessings in return before retreating to their temples for the rest of the day.
Chiang Mai - Doi Inthanon National Park
Distance: 95 Km
Duration: 1h 45m
Road Type: Highway
Road Conditions: Excellent
Stay: Inthanon Lao Ju House
Highlight: Comfort, Location
Morning
Pack your bags and head towards Doi Inthanon National Park (Google Maps). The initial road might not be particularly exciting, but you’ll notice a significant change in scenery once you enter the park, with cooler air and the beginning of the famous 4,088 curves of the loop.
If you leave Chiang Mai at dawn, you can reach the stunning Mae Ya Waterfall (Google Maps) in the early hours, enjoying this natural wonder in peace before tourists arrive. Continue towards the park entrance, where you’ll need to purchase tickets for Doi Inthanon National Park (Google Maps) for 300฿ (approximately €8.50). As often happens, locals pay much lower rates compared to foreigners.
The second stop, before reaching the village for your overnight stay, is the spectacular Wachirathan Waterfall (Google Maps), even more impressive than the previous one, though it can only be admired from a distance due to its powerful flow.
Lunch
The village inside the park has several local eateries where you can have lunch. Among the best are ครัวร่มโพธิ์ (Google Maps) and ร้านหอมจันทร์ (Google Maps), both offering well-prepared local dishes at competitive prices.
Afternoon
Check into your chosen accommodation. The village offers various lodging options suitable for different budgets. I stayed at Inthanon Lao Ju House (Google Maps), which provides both budget cabins with shared bathrooms and more spacious, comfortable units at higher prices. Negotiating on-site allowed me to secure one of the best family units for 700฿ (approximately €19.70).
In the afternoon, embark on the Pha Dok Sieo Nature Trail (Google Maps), a two-hour trek through breathtaking landscapes, forests, and waterfalls. For this activity, a guide is required for each group at a cost of 220฿ (approximately €6.20), and at the end of the trail, you’ll need to pay an additional 150฿ (approximately €4.20) for transportation back to the starting point.
Once you’ve retrieved your vehicle, visit The Royal Agricultural Station Inthanon (Google Maps), where you can stroll through well-maintained gardens and explore unique plant varieties.
Dinner
For dinner, you can return to the restaurants recommended for lunch or choose one of the street stalls along the village's main road. End your day by going to bed early and setting your alarm for 5:00 AM in preparation for a sunrise trek the following day.
Doi Inthanon National Park - Mae Sariang
Distance: 155 Km
Duration: 3h 15m
Road Type: Mountainous
Road Conditions: Excellent
Stay: Chill House Mae Sariang
Highlight: Natural surrounding
Sunrise
Wake up at 5:00 AM so you can reach the starting point of the trek, Kew Mae Pan nature trail (Google Maps), by 6:00 AM, when it opens. It takes about half an hour to get there, so make sure to fill up your gas the evening before to avoid any issues or delays. Bring water and warm clothes to fight the cold before sunrise. The guide’s fee is 200฿ (approximately €5.60) per group: being alone, I joined a couple I met in the entrance line to save.
The hike lasts about an hour and a half, ending at the starting point, passing through forests and reaching the famous Kew Mae Pan Viewpoint (Google Maps), one of the highest points in Thailand where you can watch the sunrise. Unfortunately, during my visit, the fog completely covered the view, but with a bit of luck, you may have a different experience than mine.
Morning
On your way to your accommodation, stop at Pagoda Noppamethanedon & Pagoda Nopphonphusiri: The Royal Pagodas of Mount Inthanon Summit (Google Maps), where for 100฿ (approximately €2.80) you can visit two stunning pagodas standing in a breathtaking landscape. Then head back to the village for a refreshing breakfast and a moment of relaxation before checking out from your accommodation. Today's drive is one of the longest of the loop, so I recommend stopping in the village of Mae Chaem for lunch.
Lunch
In Mae Chaem, you’ll find Mae Chaem Gate Restaurant (Google Maps), famous for its menu that also includes international dishes, and a popular stop for tourists passing through this region. Alternatively, the village also offers more modest local restaurants and the delightful Pema Cafe (เพมาคาเฟ่) (Google Maps), perfect for a break before getting back on the road.
Afternoon
Continue towards Mae Sariang, with the option to take a slight detour for a revitalizing stop at Mae Umlong Hot Spring (Google Maps), if time and energy allow. After a long day, you’ll probably be tired and will want to check into your hotel: I stayed at Chill House Mae Sariang (Google Maps), a budget-friendly choice for its location in nature and its clean, functional rooms, though simple, for 600฿ (approximately €16.90), with breakfast included.
Dinner
In Mae Sariang, there are two local spots highly appreciated by the locals: Mae Luang Pen (Google Maps), known for its variety of grilled meats, and Inthira Restaurant (Google Maps), which offers traditional Thai dishes and a more varied menu. Near the bridge crossing the river, you'll find a small night market, perfect for a stroll after dinner: กาดฮิมยวม - Jong Kham Market (Google Maps).
Mae Sariang - Khun Yuam
Distance: 100 Km
Duration: 1h 50m
Road Type: Rural
Road Conditions: Excellent
Stay: บ้านไร่เสือโคร่ง
Highlight: Room, Scenic view
Overview
The village of Khun Yuam, doesn't offer many attractions and mainly serves as a convenient stop along the way to Mae Hong Son, especially if you're planning to visit Namton Mae Surin National Park (Google Maps). However, this detour adds over two hours of driving to your route. Personally, I didn't find the park particularly exciting, but the journey through the mountains to reach it is spectacular, with breathtaking views like those from the Thung Bua Tong Fields at Doi Mae U Kho (Google Maps). If you're short on time, you can opt to go directly to Mae Hong Son from Mae Sariang, saving a whole day.
Sunrise
Keep in mind that these mountainous regions in northern Thailand are often cloudy and foggy in the morning, but it's still worth waking up early to enjoy the sunrise from a viewpoint in the village. The Buddhist temples Wat Phrathat Chom Mon (Google Maps) and Phrathat Chom Kitti (Google Maps) both offer wide views of the surrounding landscape, facing east, where the sun rises.
Morning
After having breakfast at your chosen homestay or at one of the village stalls, spend the morning exploring this authentic town where you'll hardly encounter any tourists. The main attractions worth visiting before continuing your journey, besides the ones mentioned earlier, are the large Buddha at Phrathat Chom Thong (Google Maps), Phra That Chom Chaeng Pagoda (Google Maps), and Mae Sariang Museum (Google Maps).
The latter is an interesting Lanna-style building that combines traditional Thai architectural elements with a modern touch and the use of local materials such as wood and bamboo, reflecting the local culture influenced by the ethnic minorities of northwest Thailand. Check out and get back on the road.
Lunch
I recommend having lunch in town, where there are definitely more options available. Besides the two previously mentioned restaurants, I suggest the modern Phamolor Coffee (พะมอลอ คอฟฟี่) (Google Maps) for a coffee break paired with their delicious homemade cakes.
Afternoon
The road to Khun Yuam is less mountainous and winding than other parts of the loop, allowing you to reach your destination in less than two hours. Along the way, stop at the wonderful Wat Tham Phra (Tham Ngow) (Google Maps), which also includes a small consecrated cave. The next stop is Mae La Luang Viewpoint (Google Maps), where you can pause for a few minutes to take some photos, and finally, the Nong Haeng Hot Spring (Google Maps), perfect for relaxing in its thermal waters after a long day of exploration and driving.
Once you arrive at your destination, check in at your chosen accommodation: after visiting some disappointing or out-of-budget places, I went to บ้านไร่เสือโคร่ง (Google Maps), which turned out to be one of the best stays of the entire trip, thanks to its modern and comfortable rooms, as well as the stunning view of the surrounding mountains from the private terrace. After negotiating on-site, I paid 600฿ (approximately €16.90) for the night, but the standard was truly high.
Dinner
Since Khun Yuam is a small village with only 7,000 inhabitants, dining options are limited to small stalls along the main road or the tourist restaurant Grahtin's Kitchen (Google Maps).
Khun Yuam - Mae Hong Son
Distance: 115 Km
Duration: 2h 40m
Road Type: Mountainous
Road Conditions: Mixed
Stay: The Creek Garden Resort
Highlight: Natural surrounding
Morning
After checking out from your hotel, load your luggage and continue your journey. The day includes a detour from the main loop, which you'll immediately notice from the less maintained roads. As you leave the village, you'll find the morning market, perfect for a quick stop to recharge your energy.
The first stop is the Thung Bua Tong Fields at Doi Mae U Kho (Google Maps), an unmissable viewpoint in the mountains, famous for the Mexican sunflowers that paint the landscape in golden yellow (main blooming period from mid-November to early December).
Continuing, you'll reach the entrance to Namtok Mae Surin National Park (Google Maps), where you'll be asked to pay the entrance fee of 200฿ (around €5.60). This natural park offers little, except for a distant view of the น้ำตกแม่สุรินทร์ (Google Maps) waterfall. By negotiating, I managed to halve the ticket price, justifying the visit.
Lunch
A few kilometers from the national park, you'll find the Ban Nong Khiao Reservoir (Google Maps), an ideal place to relax by its tranquil shores and enjoy a delicious noodle soup at Cha Pho Ke (Google Maps), perfect for a refreshing break.
Afternoon
Continue your journey to Mae Hong Son. The first stretch of road after the Ban Nong Khiao Reservoir is unpaved, but don't worry: after about 15 minutes, the road will improve. Continuing through steep and winding mountain paths, you'll find yourself back on the main loop road, which is in excellent condition.Take a short stop at the Pha Bong Viewpoint (Google Maps), perfect for enjoying the mountain views before finally reaching Mae Hong Son.
Once you arrive, celebrate reaching the halfway point of the loop by collecting a personalized certificate! At the Mae Hong Son Chamber of Commerce (Google Maps), you can buy one of the three available certificates for 60฿ (around €1.70) each: the original one with 1864 curves (Chiang Mai - Mae Hong Son via Mae Sariang), the route via Pai (2224 curves), or the full certificate with 4088 curves. I chose the last one to commemorate the entire loop.
For accommodation, I recommend The Creek Garden Resort (Google Maps), where, after negotiating on-site, I found a small, clean, and comfortable room with a private bathroom for only 400฿ (around €11.20), nestled in a relaxing garden.
Before sunset, head to Wat Phra That Doi Kongmu (Google Maps) to enjoy the breathtaking view of Mae Hong Son, framed by lush mountains.
Dinner
The Chong Kam Night Market (Google Maps) offers a pleasant and relaxed atmosphere, overlooking Chong Kham Lake. For a restaurant meal, you can choose between the popular Bai Fern Restaurant (Google Maps) or the vegetarian JiJi Restaurant (Google Maps).
Mae Hong Son - Ban Rak Thai
Distance: 45 Km
Duration: 1h 05m
Road Type: Mountainous
Road Conditions: Good
Stay: ไร่ชากังฟูแคมป์ บ้านรักไทย
Highlight: Scenic view
Overview
The village of Ban Rak Thai (Google Maps) is an optional stop, as it is not part of the main Mae Hong Son loop route, and you'll need to travel back along the same road to rejoin the main path, extending the journey. Despite being a very touristy destination, I appreciated the landscape and the Chinese atmosphere that characterize the village, making the visit enjoyable. However, if you have limited time, you can consider skipping Ban Rak Thai and heading directly to Pai from Mae Hong Son.
Sunrise
The best viewpoint to admire the sunrise is Wat Phra That Doi Kongmu (Google Maps), where I recommend returning to see this charming town in a different light from the sunset.
Morning
Head to the Morning Market (Talat Chao) (Google Maps) for a local breakfast among the many stalls. This region of Thailand is rich in ethnic groups, including indigenous tribes from Myanmar, such as the Karen, known for their "giraffe women" who wear traditional metal collars to elongate their necks, passing down their centuries-old traditions.
About 25 minutes by road, the village of Huay Pu Keng (Kayan Village) (Google Maps) offers the opportunity to immerse yourself in this unique culture and interact with the community. The entrance fee of 220฿ (around €6.20) includes a boat ride across the river to reach the village.
Upon returning to Mae Hong Son, relax at a café like Coffee Morning (Google Maps) or YAMA Coffee & Bistro (Google Maps), then check out from your hotel.
Lunch
Have an early lunch in Mae Hong Son at one of the previously mentioned places, or explore other options the town has to offer.
Afternoon
It's time to head to Ban Rak Thai, a charming village on the border with Myanmar, developed around Mae Sa-nga Lake and founded in the mid-20th century by Chinese soldiers fleeing the civil war. During the journey, make a detour to visit ถ้ำปลา Tham Pla (Fish Cave) (Google Maps) and น้ำตกผาเสื่อ / Namtok Pha Suea - Pha Sua Waterfall (Google Maps), which require a shared entrance fee of 100฿ (around €2.80), also easily negotiable.
Ban Rak Thai, with its charm and unique history, is one of the favorite tourist destinations for Thais, especially on weekends, when prices, particularly on platforms like booking.com or Agoda, tend to rise. As usual, after negotiating on-site, I managed to get a comfortable private room with a spectacular view of the lake for 700฿ (around €19.70) at the ไร่ชากังฟูแคมป์ บ้านรักไทย (Google Maps) homestay. If your budget is lower, several accommodations offer camping tents in equally beautiful scenic spots, starting from 500฿ (around €14.10), such as HONGFU RAKTHAI 宏福 (Google Maps).
Take a walk around the lake at sunset, where the Chinese lanterns from boats and surrounding establishments will provide a wonderful display. This region is also famous for tea production, which you can sample at many of the village's cafés, such as Cafeบ้านดิน บ้านรักไทย (Google Maps).
Dinner
This charming village offers restaurants with typical local cuisine, including their braised pork with herbs (Hong Shao Rou) and steamed or fried dumplings. The best restaurant to taste the local dishes is Lee Wine Yunnan Restaurant (Google Maps), although it’s not the cheapest and is quite touristy. ร้านก๋วยเตี๋ยวป้านวย (Google Maps) is recommended for local noodle dishes, while ร้านข้าวซอยยูนนาน (Google Maps) is the ideal choice for Chinese BBQ lovers.
Ban Rak Thai - Pai
Distance: 120 Km
Duration: 2h 35m
Road Type: Mountainous
Road Conditions: Good
Stay: Huana Crispy Basil
Highlight: Location, Price
Sunrise
Today’s journey will be quite intense: the drive along the mountainous road to Pai takes about 3 hours, with several unmissable stops along the way. Start early to enjoy the magic of Ban Rak Thai at sunrise, when the sun rises between the mountains and lights up the picturesque lake at the heart of the village.
Take one last walk to savor the unique atmosphere of this place, perhaps accompanied by a hearty breakfast at one of the suggested local spots or directly at the accommodation where you stayed.
Morning
Check out and resume your journey, returning to the main road of the Mae Hong Son Loop after about 40 minutes of driving.
At this point in the loop, you will be near Wat Pa Tam Wua (Google Maps), a Buddhist temple renowned for welcoming visitors from around the world who wish to practice meditation and Vipassana, getting closer to the monastic Buddhist culture. This is a deeply immersive experience, ideal for anyone who wants to take a break from the Mae Hong Son Loop for a few days and focus on inner connection and the search for personal peace.
If you continue with the motorcycle itinerary, the first stop is Ban Luk Khao Lam View Point (Google Maps), where you can enjoy a drink with a view of the mountains.
Then proceed to Ban Jabo Village (Google Maps) , diverting for about ten minutes from the main road, to reach this plateau that offers one of the most spectacular panoramas of this region of Thailand.
Lunch
At the famous Noodle Soup House (Google Maps) in Ban Jabo, you can enjoy a delicious local noodle soup for just 50฿ (around €1.40), enriched by one of the most spectacular views of the entire journey.
Afternoon
The next stop is one of the most unmissable: Nam Lod Cave (Google Maps) is a majestic limestone cave with 3 different areas, famous for its impressive rock formations, stalactites, and stalagmites. While the main part of the cave is accessible all year round, the other two areas are often inaccessible due to rainfall (especially between May and September). To visit the cave, you will need a guide, which is included in the 600฿ (around €16.90) entrance fee for a group of up to 3 people. I recommend kindly asking the staff at the ticket office to store your luggage during the visit, as the excursion lasts about an hour and a half and crosses sometimes winding paths.
The last stop before reaching Pai is another viewpoint: Doi Kiew Lom Viewpoint (Google Maps), perfect for a final brief stop to recharge before reaching your final destination of the day.
Pai offers many accommodation options, being the most touristy destination on the entire loop. In December and January, due to the high influx of tourists, I recommend booking a few days in advance, perhaps with free cancellation to remain flexible. I stayed in a private accommodation not listed on major online platforms, owned by Jik, who also runs the local restaurant Huana Crispy Basil (Google Maps). You can contact him directly at +66 996918865. However, I suggest opting for a place near the walking street, ideal for fully enjoying the lively atmosphere of Pai.
To enjoy the wonderful sunset that Pai is known for, head to Big Buddha Pai (Google Maps) or Two Huts Pai (Google Maps).
Dinner
Pai is certainly famous for its night market that runs along the Pai Walking Street (Google Maps), offering an incredible number of options. Other local restaurants worth mentioning, especially for their good value for money, include ครัวไทย อาหารตามสั่ง (Thai Kitchen) (Google Maps) and James Chicken Rice and Noodles (Google Maps). For vegan food lovers, Ci Xin Jai (Google Maps) is the best choice, while for those who want a Thai dinner in a more refined setting designed for tourists, Charlie&lek (Google Maps) may be just what you need.
After Dinner
Pai is also the only destination on the loop offering after-dinner options, thanks to its vibrant atmosphere and the strong influx of tourists and backpackers from all over the world. The two spots that impressed me the most, thanks to their atmosphere and live music, where you can sip a drink before bed, are Jazz House (Google Maps) and Spirit Bar & Jewelry (Google Maps).
Pai
Stay: Huana Crispy Basil
Highlight: Location, Price
Overview
Pai is undoubtedly one of the most beloved destinations for tourists, travelers, and digital nomads in all of Thailand. In addition to offering numerous attractions in its surroundings, it is also the perfect place to relax, thanks to its beautiful nature, affordable cafes and restaurants, and many services, including gyms, Muay Thai schools, yoga, Thai massages, and pools. In this itinerary, I’ve planned only two nights in Pai, as the main goal is to complete the Mae Hong Son Loop, exploring all the points of interest. However, if you have more time, you may certainly consider extending your stay in this charming village.
Sunrise
In Pai, the weather tends to be quite stable, with mornings often shrouded in thick mist and afternoons featuring a clear sky. However, as you ascend in altitude, you can enjoy spectacular sunrises above the mist that envelops the village. Yun Lai Viewpoint (Google Maps), located just a few minutes from the center, is undoubtedly the ideal place to start the day by watching the sunrise.
Morning
For breakfast, Pai offers many cafes where you can enjoy satisfying meals, including the relaxing The House Cafe' Homestead (Google Maps) and Romance Cafe (Google Maps), both a few kilometers from the center and away from the traffic. If, like me, you prefer local breakfasts, at Saeng Thong Market (Google Maps), you will find several stalls serving Thai dishes at bargain prices.
The morning, with its cooler temperatures, is also the best time to indulge in a relaxing bath in one of the hot springs around Pai. Tha Pai Hot Spring (Google Maps), located only 8 km from the center, has several natural pools nestled in the forest with varying temperatures. The entry fee for foreigners is 300฿ (about €8.40). If you don’t feel tired from the previous days of driving, you can consider Mueang Paeng Hot Spring (Google Maps), about 34 km from the village. These springs offer equally enchanting pools surrounded by nature, and entry is completely free.
Dedicate this morning to relaxation: a hot spring bath, a massage at one of the many centers, or maybe both! I particularly recommend Pai Massage and Training by Mr. Bann and Joy (Google Maps), where I had the pleasure of taking a course to learn the art of Thai massage.
Lunch
Consider the previously mentioned venues or discover new options. If you are in Pai on a Saturday, don’t miss the weekly market held at สวนสาธารณะ เวียงใต้ Park (Google Maps).
Afternoon
One of Pai’s main attractions is the Kho Ku So Bamboo Bridge (Google Maps), a bamboo bridge originally built to facilitate the passage of monks and local residents during the rainy season. If you're nearby, take a refreshing break at Pambok Café (Google Maps), located near the bridge, or relax at the comfortable Dear Your Mind Café (Google Maps), closer to the center. Then head to Pai’s main point of interest: Pai Canyon (Google Maps). This unique place offers a spectacular rocky panorama and is particularly striking at sunset when the colors of the sky turn the landscape into an unforgettable show.
Dinner & After Dinner
Consider the previously mentioned restaurants or explore new options, both for dinner and after-dinner activities.
Pai - Chiang Mai
Distance: 125 Km
Duration: 3h 05m
Road Type: Mountainous
Road Conditions: Excellent
Morning
After a refreshing breakfast, if you’ve already visited the most important places mentioned above, you might consider joining a Yoga or Muay Thai class to make the most of your stay in Pai. To get closer to the world of Muay Thai, Charn Chai Muay Thai Pai (Google Maps) is an excellent choice, even for beginners. If you prefer Yoga, Atlas Valley Hostel (Google Maps) offers free classes every morning at 8:30, open to everyone, regardless of your accommodation choice.
The road to Chiang Mai consists of 762 curves, making it the most exhausting for motorcyclists traveling the Mae Hong Son Loop, especially given the increased traffic on this more touristy stretch. Therefore, dedicate the last moments of relaxation in Pai to recharge before the final three-hour ride.
Lunch
I recommend having lunch in Pai or grabbing a takeaway meal as the dining options along the route are very limited and not always convenient.
Afternoon
Along the way to Chiang Mai, you will find several rest stops.
If you’re interested in deepening your understanding of Buddhist culture and experiencing monastic life, a must-stop is the Pa Pae Meditation Retreat (Google Maps), located between the mountains, halfway through the journey.
Like Wat Pa Tam Wua (Google Maps), this center also offers the opportunity to connect with meditation and Buddhist spirituality, welcoming visitors without the need for prior booking. For those who seek a more immersive experience, retreats of at least three days are available, with all necessary information on their official website: www.papaemeditation.org .
Upon reaching Chiang Mai, the Mae Hong Son Loop comes to an end, leaving you with unforgettable memories of a journey that unveiled the wild beauty, authentic culture, and tranquility of the northern mountains of Thailand, all waiting to be discovered by crossing the 4088 curves that define its route.
Travel Expenses
This remote area in northern Thailand is definitely less frequented compared to the crowded southern regions, especially the islands. As a result, the costs are generally lower.
The biggest expense was definitely accommodation: during this trip, I opted for comfortable, mid-to-high standard accommodations, all with private bathrooms, with prices ranging from 400฿ (around €11.30) to 700฿ (around €19.80). Traveling as a couple halves the cost, making the experience even more affordable. The chosen accommodations provided the necessary comfort to recharge after long days of riding between different destinations. However, along the route, there are options for every budget, from luxury resorts to hostels, ideal for those wishing to keep costs even lower. Considering the variety of activities and the limited time, you’ll spend little time in the accommodations.
The food, aside from being delicious, is surprisingly cheap. Local restaurants and markets serve dishes mainly made of noodles, rice, vegetables, and meat, with prices ranging from 40฿ (around €1.30) to 120฿ (around €3.40), not including alcoholic drinks, of course.
The cost of access to various attractions is also reasonable, although locals pay up to 10 times less than foreigners in some cases.
Regarding insurance, Safety Wings offers coverage designed for travelers and nomads at a cost of about 2 euros per day.
Finally, in Thailand, SIM cards are very affordable: in the numerous 7/11 stores across the country, you can purchase 10-day plans for around 100 Baht (approximately 2.80 €), perfect for covering the entire duration of the loop, as well as monthly plans for longer stays.
Here’s an approximate overview of the expenses incurred during the 8-day - 7-night trip:
