My Journey into Balinese Spirituality

Usaba Manggung: A Sacred Ceremony in East Bali's Remote Villages

While traveling through the remote regions of northern Bali, I met a local friend who introduced me to some of the island’s most unique cultural traditions. One such experience was the Usaba Manggung ceremony in the village of Bug Bug, a rare and deeply significant event in Balinese Hinduism.

Over the years, I’ve had the privilege of participating in several Balinese ceremonies, including the more frequent celebrations of Galungan and Kuningan, which honor the triumph of good over evil and the spirits of ancestors. However, nothing could have prepared me for the sheer intensity and magic of Usaba Mangung.

Held only once every few years, Usaba Mangung celebrates the relationship between the gods, ancestral spirits, and the living. It is a time for villagers to honor these spirits and seek blessings for their community’s prosperity and harmony. The ceremony is a vibrant blend of devotion, celebration, and ritual, culminating in powerful and symbolic nighttime events.

Daytime Blessings and Festivities

The day began with traditional blessings. Villagers gathered in the local temple to pray and present offerings to the gods and spirits, creating an atmosphere of reverence and quiet devotion. The scent of incense filled the air as families offered beautifully arranged baskets of fruit, flowers, and rice.

Outside the temple, however, the village buzzed with energy. The streets were lined with food stalls, offering everything from satay skewers to sweet Balinese treats. Children ran through the crowd, laughter mingling with the sounds of vendors calling out their offerings.

Among the villagers, groups formed around gambling games, a surprising sight for an outsider. In Balinese Hinduism, gambling during ceremonies is believed to invite blessings from the god of luck and chance. Winning or losing is less important than the act itself, which adds an element of playfulness to the day.

The Night Comes Alive

As evening fell, the true heart of the Usaba Manggung ceremony unfolded. The villagers’ focus shifted to the sacred containers, believed to house the spirits of gods or ancestors. These ornately decorated boxes, carried on the shoulders of select villagers, symbolized the spiritual presence guiding the community.

The procession started on the main street of Bug Bug, lit by lanterns and filled with excitement. The scene was captivating: the steady movement of the people carrying offerings, the chants of prayers, and the eager crowd created an atmosphere full of respect and energy. Locals lined the road to watch.

It was clear this was the highlight of the ceremony, a time when the connection between the living and the spirits felt strong. Traditional dances and moments of spirit possession, where ancestors seemed to guide the participants, added to the powerful energy of the event.

The Meaning Behind Usaba Manggung

At its core, Usaba Manggung is about renewal and protection. By honoring the spirits and gods, the villagers seek blessings for their homes, families, and future harvests. The sacred containers symbolize the guardianship of these divine forces, ensuring harmony and balance within the community.

The ceremony is also a time for reflection, unity, and gratitude. It strengthens bonds within the village and reminds participants of their role in maintaining the balance between the seen and unseen worlds.

A Unique Invitation

Thanks to the generosity of my local friend, I had the rare opportunity to witness this extraordinary ceremony from within the community. I was the only tourist among thousands of people who had come from all over Bali. This wasn’t a tourist attraction: it was raw, real, and deeply spiritual.

Sitting among the villagers, sharing meals, and absorbing the energy of Bug Bug during Usaba Mangung felt like stepping into a living tradition. It reminded me why Bali holds such a special place in my heart. Beneath the island’s beauty lies a culture rich with meaning, where every ceremony tells a story of devotion, balance, and connection.