Rinjani: The Adventure of a Lifetime
Mount Rinjani: The Sacred Peak of Lombok’s Soul
Rising majestically at 3,726 meters above sea level, Mount Rinjani is the second-highest volcano in Indonesia and a sacred landmark for the Sasak people of Lombok. According to local legend, the mountain is the dwelling place of the goddess Anjani, who watches over the island.
The Segara Anak crater lake, nestled within the massive caldera, is believed to hold mystical powers, making the mountain a place of pilgrimage as well as adventure. Its dramatic landscapes, from jagged volcanic ridges to lush forests and the shimmering blue lake, attract trekkers from all over the world. But this beauty comes at a cost: reaching the summit is an arduous journey that tests both body and spirit.
Starting the Journey: Sembalun Gate
My adventure began at Sembalun Gate, one of the four main entry points to Mount Rinjani.
Unlike the denser jungle paths from Senaru, Sembalun offers sweeping views of open grasslands at the start, which gradually give way to rugged volcanic terrain.
This is not a trek you can undertake alone. Rinjani National Park regulations require hiring a guided tour, which includes experienced guides, porters, and all necessary equipment like tents, food, and permits. These porters, often barefoot or wearing simple sandals, carry incredible loads with ease, making the climb possible for trekkers like me.
Day 1: Warming Up for the Summit
The first day of the trek began early, under a clear sky, with the path winding gently through rolling meadows, filled with wildflowers and the sounds of nature. As the day progressed, the terrain became more demanding, with the sun beating down relentlessly. Despite the growing challenge, the anticipation of reaching the summit kept my spirit high. Along the way, there were four crucial rest stops, known as pos, where I could catch my breath, refuel, and grab some food and drinks. These breaks were a welcome relief, providing much-needed moments to rest my legs and chat with fellow trekkers.
By late afternoon, around 5 p.m., we finally arrived at the crater rim campsite. The view was breathtaking: the sunset over the Segara Anak crater lake cast an orange glow on the water below, with the silhouette of Mount Agung in Bali visible in the distance.
The beauty of the scene made every step worth it. That evening, I shared a modest meal with other trekkers, exchanging stories and experiences before retreating to my tent. As I settled in for the night, the sky opened up with a blanket of stars, marking the end of a rewarding first day on the mountain.
Day 2: Conquering Rinjani’s Summit
Day two began at 2 a.m.. The air was crisp, and the darkness was thick, illuminated only by the glow of our headlamps. The final climb was tough: a four-hour struggle on loose volcanic gravel that slipped with every step.The higher I climbed, the thinner the air became, and the more I had to rely on sheer determination to keep moving.
But as the horizon began to glow with the first light of dawn, my exhaustion melted away. Reaching the summit just as the sun rose was an indescribable reward. The world stretched out before me; Lombok’s coastline, the neighboring islands of Bali and Sumbawa, and the vast expanse of ocean below. It was one of the most breathtaking views I have ever witnessed, a moment of pure triumph that made every step worth it.
The Long Descent
Thanks to the generosity of my local friend, I had the rare opportunity to witness this extraordinary ceremony from within the community. I was the only tourist among thousands of people who had come from all over Bali. This wasn’t a tourist attraction: it was raw, real, and deeply spiritual.
Sitting among the villagers, sharing meals, and absorbing the energy of Bug Bug during Usaba Mangung felt like stepping into a living tradition. It reminded me why Bali holds such a special place in my heart. Beneath the island’s beauty lies a culture rich with meaning, where every ceremony tells a story of devotion, balance, and connection.
A Challenge Worth Taking
Climbing Mount Rinjani was, without a doubt, the toughest physical and mental challenge I’ve ever faced. From the freezing predawn summit push to the scorching heat of the descent, it pushed me to my limits. But it was also the most rewarding experience of my life. Standing atop Rinjani as the sun rose over the Indonesian archipelago is a memory that will stay with me forever.
Planning Your Trek
If you’re ready to take on this epic adventure, tours are widely available through local operators in Lombok. They take care of permits, equipment, and logistics, ensuring you’re well-prepared for the climb. For detailed information and recommendations, check out The Lombok Loop (day 10/11).